Princess Louisa inlet was a highlight we were excited to see. The guidebooks had built it up to be so amazing that it seemed impossible that it could live up to the descriptions. But it was indeed one of the most beautiful and dramatic places we have ever been. As we sailed downwind deeper into the Jervis inlet, we were awed by the dramatic snow-capped mountains and towering cliffs that seemed to grow with each twist and turn of the 40-mile inlet. The daunting Malibu Rapids was the gate into the final 4-mile Princess Louisa Inlet.
We carefully monitored our speed throughout the day to arrive at the rapids at slack water when it would be safe to pass through the narrow channel. After making the final turn into the head of the inlet, we were met by the roaring Chatterbox Falls, massive granite cliffs rising 5000 ft above us, and an available mooring ball with a bald eagle perched nearby. Wow! The guidebooks had it right! We stayed 3 nights to fully take in the experience: hiked a very strenuous trek to an abandoned trapper’s cabin and beautiful falls, swam in the 66 degree water, enjoyed dinner on the boat of a couple with whom we became acquainted, and paddle boarded around the head of the inlet.
Since Malibu, we have now successfully navigated through six rapids. Rapids form in narrow passages due to high current caused by the tidal changes. They can be very fast and rough with whirlpools, overflows, and high currents of 7-15 knots at their peak flow. To safely transit, one must pass through at slack water—the window of time (~15-30 minutes) when tide is turning from flood to or from ebb. Faster rapids have shorter windows of slack. The timing of slack is different for every place along the coast requiring careful calculations using the Canadian Tide and Current tables, which Brett and I have had quite a bit of practice doing now. This has been interesting to experience and better understand. Trying our best to be prudent skippers, we depart for a rapid plenty early so that we do not arrive late—it is easier to slow the boat down than speed it up to arrive on time.
We have really enjoyed the anchorages where we can explore ashore with a good hike. It is amazing to beach the dinghy, walk just a few steps, and immediately be in the lush forest. The forest floors are filled with ferns and mosses, interesting fungi grow sideways out of tree trunks, sun filters down through the evergreen canopy. In a few cases we have been able to hike to a freshwater lake for a swim. Clear cutting done in decades past has scarred the hillsides in places. We hiked in one such area on Quadra Island and the land was filled with younger trees interspersed with gigantic Douglas Fir stumps--the area regaining beauty with slow recovery.
In addition to Princess Louisa inlet, we have explored the inlets of the Discovery and Hotham Sound islands. The islands have different vibes largely relating to how easy it is for people to get there. It was a thrill to spot a humpback whale for the first time. We hear advocacy group and coast guard radio communications warning boaters of humpback and orca sightings in efforts to protect the whales. Still waiting and hoping to see a bear—from a safe distance!
Commentaires