After our big passage to San Francisco, we were ready to take a break and enjoy some time in Idaho. We had a great 2 weeks in Boise and McCall visiting family and friends. We were especially excited that Ellie and Aaron could join us for a week along with their friends, Patrick and Bernadette. We got lucky in that the summer’s wildfire smoke cleared out for the most part so we could enjoy Boise and McCall.
The boat was in good order when we returned to it at the Marina Bay Yacht Harbor in Richmond, CA and we were excited to spend time exploring San Francisco! Anchoring in Aquatic Park was a highlight—a great opportunity to anchor in the heart of downtown, right in front of Ghirardelli Square. It was fun to watch the many swimmers in that area and the lights of the city shine every evening. We beached our dinghy, loaded with our folding bikes and explored many of the eclectic and diverse neighborhoods in San Francisco over several days. Our good friends, Frederique and Bruno of SV Orpao arrived just in time to enjoy a stunning Marin Highlands hike, jazz in the park in Sausalito, and a memorable Italian dinner on our final night in the bay.
Remembering the thrill of arriving at the Golden Gate bridge after our passage, it was bittersweet to head back out, but it was time to move along. Halfmoon Bay was our first stop down the coast—a quick half day motor sail to Pillar Point Harbor. Anchoring is easy in this fully protected harbor with a convenient dinghy dock. We hopped on our bikes again to explore Mavericks Beach, a famous surfing spot (although the surf was quite small that day), a 20-mile ride along the Half Moon Bay coastal trail including cocktails with a seriously good view at the Ritz. Cruising doesn’t mean roughing it! We began our introduction to California wildlife here, with thousands of Brown Pelicans on the breakwater. They are supposedly endangered, but not here!
Next stop was Santa Cruz, where California surfing was born. We anchored adjacent to the famous Santa Cruz pier and enjoyed the views of the boardwalk and iconic Giant Dipper, a 100-year-old wooden roller coaster. A bike ride along West Cliff Drive was a big highlight, with dramatic views of cliffs, pocket beaches, and famous surf spots. More encounters with California wildlife, this time sea lions who made their presence very known with steady barking and a complete takeover of the pier’s dinghy dock, forcing us to tie up at the friendly Santa Cruz marina.
We had a dreamy beam reach sail across Monterey Bay to the Monterey Municipal Marina, where we spent 3 days. There was a lot to explore here! The Monterey Aquarium was inspiring with amazing jellyfish, shore bird, and kelp forest exhibits being our favorites. Another scenic bike ride took us along 19 mile drive, a route along dramatic cliffs and surf break that ended at the Pebble Beach resort, where we “roughed it” again with a delicious lunch overlooking the 18th green with incredible ocean views. We enjoyed a couple excellent restaurants, including breakfast at Lou Lou’s on the wharf with new friends, John and Ivy of SV Ruby Slippers. After an easy provisioning at nearby Trader Joe’s, we were ready to make a very early departure for our next leg.
The next leg was an 80-mile journey to San Simeon, our longest day sail yet. The dark departure at 4am was a little nerve wracking, but the striking rays of a glorious sunrise quickly eased our minds. This downwind sail took us south along the rugged Big Sur shoreline. Even in low surf, the waves crashing against the shore backed by coastal cliffs and steep interior mountains made for dramatic scenery. By days end, the protected anchorage of San Simeon was a welcome sight. We enjoyed a little extra rest in this peaceful spot as well as the nearby Hearst Castle and winery, both of which were worth the visit. With no dinghy dock, we had to brave our first beach landing to explore on land. Luckily the surf was light, and our paddleboards were perfect for getting us onto shore and keeping us mostly dry.
Next up was Avila Beach in San Luis Bay and we enjoyed a beam to broad reach sail in 15 knots of wind for this 40-mile stretch. We anchored just outside of the swimming zone in front of this cute beach town. It was a rather rolly anchorage especially in the afternoons, with only moderate protection from the ocean swell wrapping into the bay. Beach landings were required again, and they were trickier here! Using paddleboards again, we did our best to wait for a lull in the bigger wave sets, keep the board facing the beach and paddle paddle paddle! We mostly made it save for one unfortunate incident returning to the boat in dinner clothes, when I got crumbled by a wave, then another, lost my paddle and had to completely regroup with Brett’s help.
They say Point Conception marks the boundary between central and southern California, with warming water and settling seas as one moves south around this point. We motored in light wind for most of the 53-mile journey, so it was ironic that as soon as we entered “Southern” California’s Cojo Anchorage, just around the tip of Point Conception, the wind hit 30 knots! It was a crazy half hour with a too close for comfort appearance of a humpback whale, avoiding the thick kelp patches and getting the anchor down. Our anchor caught immediately—we have been grateful again and again for our solid ground tackle. The investment in our new Rochna Vulcan anchor, Maxwell windlass and bow roller system constructed by Blackline Marine has been completely worth it. The wind died down as the sun began to set and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset and the wildness of the ocean crashing against the nearby rocks before settling in for a good night’s sleep.
Central California was a picturesque, dramatic stretch of coastline and the unique perspective we had from the boat as we cruised south was awesome. It made for memorable and exciting cruising. Next up—So Cal!!
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